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  • Oaxaca: A City of Green Stone, Chocolate, and Smoke

    Harvey

    13/09/2025
    TRAVEL
    Oaxaca: A City of Green Stone, Chocolate, and Smoke

    Oaxaca, one of Mexico’s most beautiful capitals, is a city where history, art, gastronomy, and nature converge in a vibrant, sensory experience. Pronounced “Uajaca,” it is a place where every corner tells a story, from colonial architecture to indigenous traditions. The city invites visitors to explore at their own pace, whether wandering its colorful streets, discovering local markets, or venturing into the surrounding countryside.

    The journey often begins at the Santo Domingo de Guzmán Convent, a historical landmark built just three decades after the Spanish arrived. Today, it houses a museum spanning ten thousand years of history, allowing visitors to stroll through its serene halls and gardens. The convent’s botanical garden, dotted with cacti and native plants, offers a quiet respite and a chance to admire the green stone that characterizes much of Oaxaca’s architecture.

    Walking through the city is an experience in itself. Oaxaca’s streets and terraces brim with life, colors, and energy. The Zócalo, or main square, is framed by porticoes that shelter visitors from rain while offering vibrant views of daily life. Streets like the Acueducto, formerly known as Antequera, display a riot of colors reminiscent of a child’s palette—red, blue, yellow, and violet—all perfect for photography. During festivals, papel picado decorations hang overhead, adding a sense of celebration to every stroll. On lucky days, visitors may even encounter the monos de calenda, giant puppets used in weddings and local festivities, parading down the streets in joyful processions.

    Beyond the city center, Oaxaca’s natural wonders await. Hierve el Agua, about an hour and a half away, features petrified waterfalls formed from calcium carbonate and other minerals. Walking through its lush trails and soaking in natural pools, visitors can experience a serene connection to the land. Nearby, the Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle offers insight into traditional weaving techniques, with artisans demonstrating the creation of colorful rugs from natural dyes. For a taste of local gastronomy, Tlamanalli, run by Abigail Mendoza and her sisters, immerses visitors in pre-Hispanic culinary traditions. Another stop is Santa María del Tule, home to the world’s widest tree, whose trunk spans 14.5 meters and has witnessed centuries pass.

    Oaxaca is synonymous with mezcal, the smoky agave spirit that has become a symbol of the region. Traditional and modern mezcalerías alike offer tastings and tours, showing how the agave is transformed from raw plant to refined liquor. Culinary delights abound, from casual market stalls in the Pasillo de Humo to Michelin-starred restaurants like Levadura de Olla, where Chef Thalía Barrios García crafts exquisite dishes that celebrate local ingredients. Chocolate, too, permeates the city, with traditional water-based drinks filling streets with their sweet aroma.

    Art and culture thrive in Oaxaca. Museums honor local artists, including the legendary Francisco Toledo, showcasing modern, graphic, and indigenous art. Every corner offers discovery, whether it’s in a quiet gallery, bustling street, or historical site.

    No visit is complete without exploring Monte Albán, the ancient Zapotec city perched above the valley. This archaeological site, whose name means “Mountain of the Jaguar,” provides insight into the region’s pre-Columbian history. For those who extend their journey, Oaxaca’s coastline offers pristine beaches in Huatulco, Puerto Escondido, Mazunte, Zipolite, and San Agustinillo, perfect for sun, sand, and relaxation.

    From its green stone streets and colorful markets to its smoky mezcal and ancient ruins, Oaxaca is a city that enchants all the senses. Whether wandering through historic centers, savoring traditional cuisine, or exploring natural landscapes, visitors discover a blend of tradition, beauty, and vitality that is uniquely Oaxacan.

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